Bolani is the food I think about when I’m homesick. Not because we ate it every day in Kabul - we didn’t - but because it’s the food that sits at the centre of every gathering. Weddings, Eid, Nowruz, the long Friday lunches that ran into evening. Always bolani, hot off the tawa, stacked under a cloth, eaten with yoghurt and chutney.

When I moved to Sydney I struggled to make it the way my mother did. The flour was different. The leeks were different. The pan was different. It took me a few years to work out adjustments that get me close.

This is my standard weekend version. Leek and potato, which is the classic. Once you’ve made it a few times you can branch out into pumpkin, chives or red lentils.

The dough

Bolani dough is simple - flour, water, salt, a touch of oil. The trick is texture. You want a dough soft enough to roll very thin without tearing, but firm enough to hold a filling.

For two large bolani (enough for four people as a snack, two as a meal):

• 300g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
• 180ml warm water
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 tablespoon neutral oil

Mix the flour and salt, add the oil and water, bring it together with a fork then knead by hand for about eight minutes. It should be smooth and slightly tacky but not sticking to your hands. Cover with a damp cloth and rest for at least 30 minutes. An hour is better.

The rest is non-negotiable. A rested dough rolls thin without springing back; an unrested dough fights you the whole way.

The filling

This is where Australian leeks have caused me trouble. Afghan leeks (gandana) are smaller, more tender, with a flavour closer to garlic chives than to a European leek. The big white leeks at Coles are too mild and too fibrous.

What I do now: combine half a small leek (white and pale green parts only, finely sliced) with a generous bunch of garlic chives or spring onion greens. This gives me a filling that tastes right.

For the potato, I use one large floury potato (Sebago or Russet), boiled until just tender, mashed roughly with a fork. You don’t want it smooth like Western mashed potato. Some texture is correct.

Combine:

• 250g cooked, roughly mashed potato
• Half a leek, finely sliced
• Large handful of garlic chives or spring onion tops
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1 teaspoon salt
• Half a teaspoon black pepper
• 2 tablespoons neutral oil

The mixture should be moist but not wet. If it feels dry, add another tablespoon of oil.

Shaping and cooking

Divide the dough into four pieces. Roll each one as thin as you can - I aim for about 2mm thick and roughly 25cm across. Spread filling generously over half the disc, leaving a thumb-width border. Fold the empty half over and press the edges to seal. You should have a half-moon shape.

Press the filled bolani gently with your palms to spread the filling evenly inside, pushing out any air pockets. Don’t be afraid to handle it firmly - the dough is sturdier than it looks.

Heat a heavy frying pan over medium heat. Brush with oil, but only lightly - bolani is shallow-fried, not deep-fried. Cook each bolani about 3-4 minutes per side, brushing with more oil when you flip. You want golden brown patches and a few darker blisters. The dough should be cooked through but not dry.

What to serve with it

The traditional accompaniment is mast (Afghan-style yoghurt) and chutney. I make a quick chutney with fresh coriander, green chilli, garlic, lemon juice and salt - all blended with a splash of water.

For yoghurt, full-fat Greek-style is the closest match available here. Strain it through muslin for an hour if you want it thicker. A pinch of salt and a tiny bit of crushed garlic stirred through makes it sing.

A pot of green tea, if you’re doing it properly. Bolani is communal food. It doesn’t make sense to eat it alone in front of a screen.

Notes from years of practice

If your bolani are coming out tough, your dough wasn’t rested enough or your pan was too hot. Lower heat, longer rest.

If they’re soggy, your filling was too wet. Drain the cooked potato thoroughly, or add a tablespoon of fine semolina to absorb excess moisture.

If the edges keep popping open during cooking, you didn’t seal them tightly enough. Press with the tines of a fork or just fold the edge over once and press again.

Bolani freezes well after cooking. Cool completely, layer between baking paper, freeze flat, then reheat in a dry frying pan for a few minutes per side. Better than a microwave.

There’s a good basic overview of Afghan home cooking traditions if you want context for where this dish sits in the broader cuisine. But honestly, the best way to learn bolani is to make it five or six times. The dough teaches you what it needs.

Make these on a Sunday afternoon. Your kitchen will smell like home, even if home is a long way away.